As London Collections: Men finishes for another season and the industry departs for Florence, we take a look back at the finest moments from the past three days of London’s SS15 menswear showcase.
For the second collection of the season, Lou Dalton stripped back her signature tailoring for something a little more louche. Biker jackets, airtex fabrics and rounded shoulders formed the core of the collection in muted tones of grey and black with pops of red, coral and rust lending a springy feel to the collection.
Anyone who enjoyed Astrid Andersen’s collection for Topman were sure to enjoy her recent output. Paisley prints, velour and mesh on black, orange and magenta sportswear was the order of the day. With a heavy dose of logomania, the finale culminated in a parade of models in knee-length, fringed bandeau tops. Not for the faint of heart.
Jonathan Saunders prefers to show his collections as a presentation, allowing the guests to get up close with his intricate fabrics, which have set him apart as a serious player in the industry. Sporty elements infused tailoring and knitwear in shades of tan, cream and gold with hits of grey and blue.
Fresh from winning the inaugural BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund award, Christopher Shannon is a guaranteed highlight of the men’s shows. Street culture is often citied as his inspiration and this season was no exception. Bright sportswear, stripes, colour-blocked sweatshirts and parkas are sure to be coveted by fashion types next season.
Sure to be showing on a catwalk next season, Kit Neale’s brand of fun, quirky prints emblazoned onto blousons, short suits and dungarees couldn’t help but raise a smile. Aircraft, cacti and abstract florals were the themes for this season, combined with a unique collection of prints sourced from Coca Cola’s archive.
Jeremy Scott’s debut collection for Moschino menswear delivered in terms of shock value. Held in the historic Lindley Hall in Victoria, the smiley face and flag prints, logos and printed denim struck a unique contrast. Scott reclaimed designer knock-off logos with Fauxchino printed across chiffon vests and capes. The appearance of Lindsay Lohan on the front row also got the whole room clucking.
Beginning day three with a bang, Sibling’s knitwear continued to evolve this season. Models were styled with punk mohawks and bone necklaces, a sort of Flintstones on acid. Bright primary colours mixed perfectly with black on lacey tops, tassled vests and appliquéd denim.
For his first show away from the MAN collective, Craig Green delivered a further hit of his signature loose tailoring, presenting a succinct collection of shirts, cut-out lycra jerseys and jackets in sky, cobalt and navy blue. Word has it there were tears of joy from some of the front-row guests.
The biggest event on the calendar and always a crowd-pleaser, Burberry knows how to put on a show. From art to literature, Christopher Bailey continued to pluck inspiration from British heritage, citing travel writer Bruce Chatwin as the muse for his SS15 collection. Models strode down the catwalk in velvet blazers, raw denim, cropped trousers and bucket hats in shades of brick, plum, navy and olive.
The penultimate show of the three-day event, Adrien Sauvage’s show bristled with exciting prints and wearable tailoring. Bold pops of yellow on suits clashed effortlessly with khaki and palm-tree prints while stamp prints on sweatshirts added a new sporty element to the collection.
You can see more of our coverage of LCM SS15 over on Instagram @bdalondon.